Gibbons in the Mist

Gibbons in the Mist

Superlatives are not my forte. In fact, I hate them. Tastiest meal I’ve ever eaten? Most beautiful place visited on this trip? Best dive I’ve ever done? Favorite food? Nicest hotel stayed in? I can’t answer any of those questions. But I can isolate a few experiences I’ve had, a handful of places I’ve gone, meals eaten, dives enjoyed, and days lived and identify them as truly outstanding. With each

On the Banana Pancake Trail – Nong Khiaw & Maung Ngoi

On the Banana Pancake Trail – Nong Khiaw & Maung Ngoi

About four hours north of Luang Prabang by minivan or jumbo tuk-tuk sits Nong Khiaw, a village on the banks of the Nam Ou with simple guesthouses, one nice hotel, a handful of outdoor tour operators, and just enough restaurants for the tourists who trickle through. Until recently, it could be easily reached by boat but a dam under construction between Luang Prabang and Nong Khiaw has made that a

Nong Khiaw 100 Waterfalls Trek: Probably Better in Dry Season

Nong Khiaw 100 Waterfalls Trek: Probably Better in Dry Season

Traveling solo in Laos can be expensive if you want to join any sort of organized activity or tour: prices are determined by the number of people participating and many won’t occur if there are fewer than four people. In the busiest tourist months, this probably isn’t an issue but in rainy season, which is now, it is. In Vang Vieng, I went to multiple offices to find one that

An Unexpected Rush at Kuang Si Waterfall

An Unexpected Rush at Kuang Si Waterfall

“There’s a path across that bridge. I want to see where it goes.” Paul, my British traveling companion for the day, remarked casually. The bridge is at the base of Kuang Si waterfalls – or in the middle of the falls, depending on how you view it. The path opposite us looked like a muddy, wet tangle of stone steps created by years of erosion, tree roots, and the odd

At what point does one become “outdoorsy?”

At what point does one become “outdoorsy?”

“Nature. Yuck. No, thanks.” Me, approximately age 14, speaking to my mother about hiking in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains. “An eco-retreat with no electricity or indoor plumbing that requires a 2km walk from the nearest road? Sounds great, when do we leave?” Me, about a week ago, speaking to two women I’d just met at a hostel in Vientiane, Laos. Looking back at the wasted opportunities to explore what was in